School of Fine Food, London

Farmhouse cheddar: versus supermarket favourites

Forget the Pepsi Challenge. Have you ever tried an artisan cheddar against a supermarket best-seller? Trust me, Cathedral City – the UK’s number one – comes off badly in the taste test.

That was one of the discoveries of my day at the School of Fine Food, learning all about cheese, how best to keep it and, importantly, how to sell it.

We tried over 30 cheeses during the day, six of which were cheddars. First up was Cathedral City – or the MacDonald’s of the cheese world, as my course trainers called it.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I’ve bought Cathedral City in the past. In fact, it’s hard not to have: apparently, one third of British fridges have a wedge of it in them at any time.

But I’d never appreciated before how soft it is. If you put a piece between your finger and thumb, you can squeeze it like Play-Doh.

School of Fine Food

The farmhouse cheddars we tried – Quicke’s Mature and Keen’s – were different in both taste and texture. They were firmer and had more bite.

For our final cheddar of the day, we tried Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar. Wow! This is the kind of cheese, the trainers said, you should offer that customer who comes in and asks for a cheese to blow their socks off.

They also had plenty of advice about how to present cheese – there is an art to laying out a cheese counter. Just as milk is always at the back of a supermarket, you should put your most popular cheeses furthest from the door, I learned.

You should also think of your counter as a piece of theatre, and use variety and improvisation when necessary.

“Something very exciting is happening on Friday. Let’s just say it involves seeing a notaire and collecting some keys…”

As you’d expect, we also got to try a range of cheeses over the course of the day – starting with a fresh goat’s curd and finishing with Époisses. What I didn’t anticipate is that I would come away with homework.

I now have six weeks to answer 83 questions about cheese and write two 1,000-word essays. When I’ve done all that – and assuming I get the answers right – I’ll get a diploma in cheese.

Sadly, ahem, I won’t have time for any of that this week. That’s because something very exciting is happening on Friday.

Let’s just say it involves seeing a notaire and collecting some keys…

Cheese tray photograph © School of Fine Food

This entry was published on Sat, 22 Jun 2019 at 09:26. It’s filed under Food and wine and tagged . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

19 thoughts on “Farmhouse cheddar: versus supermarket favourites

  1. I buy mine from the fromagerie or the market in town. supermarket are industrially made and as long as the process is the same they can call it brie de meaux for example!!! no way! Cheers

    Liked by 1 person

  2. How right you are. Nothing beats a good vintage cheese.
    Exciting! You will very soon be the official owners of your little piece of heaven. A dream come true, no doubt.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. In Monoprix we can find their store brand cheddar alongside Wyke while at Carrefour it’s Cathedral City. Can you suggest a place in say…Belvès, for instance, that might offer alternatives?

    Liked by 1 person

  4. I will never buy Cathedral City again! From now on, it will always be Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar. Your cheese course (!) sounds fascinating, although challenging.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. I’ve never been a fan of Cathedral City, for the exact reason you point out: its rubbery consistency. My supermarket cheddar of choice is Waitrose Essentials (6; the strongest in their range) – worth the bike ride for it! Exciting that you’ll have the keys to your new venture this week. Hope it all goes smoothly.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Ada Terrebonne Churchwell on said:

    Congrats! Sounds like your Friday is pretty exciting and long sought after.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. grace dent….a very super food critic,who writes for the[london]guardian; says that truffled baron bigod , may well be britains greatest soft cheese…..perhaps, check it out i have other food/cheese sources i’d like to share with you…..have you a email address



  8. I was reading your 1st June post and 600 posts in 2 years is pretty impressive.

    Liked by 1 person

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